10/27/2017
Italian Summer Part Three: Naples, Tivoli and Rome

Below, you'll find the belated but final instalment of my summer film diaries. I wish I took more photos in Naples, Tivoli and Rome (I exhausted most of the film I brought with me in the South) but looking back at these still did the job of making me crave a good plate of pasta and an espresso to follow. 





Naples

Naples is severely underrated. A lot of people will warn you about the city- mention its crime, reckless drivers and the like- and I'm not one to refute those warnings as I was only there for a few days. It is grittier than any of the other places we visited, and driving within the city would have by far been the most terrifying (if we had even chosen to do it, save driving in, finding a garage, and driving out). But its also very charming in its own way, and I don't think a few days gave us enough time to explore it. Pompeii was very exciting for me (I was pumped up from the History Channel videos I watched before the trip) but it was also very very hot- still worth going though. 

Food: 
We had an amazing pizza dinner (despite service that is notorious and tolerated because of how good the food is) at Gino Sorbillo, the best coffees at Intra Moenia, great cocktails in Chiaia. 

Aside from Pompeii, if you ever visit Naples you have to see the Cappella Sansevero- the chapel housing The Veiled Christ. I could have stayed in there for hours. 



Tivoli

Before heading into Rome, we spent a night in Tivoli. You've probably seen the Villa d'Este in the Lizzie McGuire movie (that's how I knew about it), and its even more beautiful in real life. We had dinner at Sbilla (right next to the Temple of Vesta, which dates back to 1st Century BC) overlooking the town (and at least one waterfall, as you do) and it was magical. We stayed at this gem of a B&B, which was reasonably priced, had the loveliest staff, and had three gelato spots in a 100m proximity. I wish I got more photos but sadly I only have the weird one above.


And finally, Rome.

We knew what we were getting into, visiting Rome in July. And it was totally worth it. I didn't end up seeing the Colosseum (though we did drive past it at least 3 times a day) but I'll save it for our next visit. I do highly recommend seeing Saint Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums (the blurry photo above is what it actually feels like to be in there considering how many people were shuffling along the corridors) and Pantheon- we were lucky enough to chance upon a Basquiat exhibition that was in town as well. The Trevi Fountain was insanely packed (go at a weird time, which also applies to the Spanish Steps). We loved the MAXXI Museum as well, and could have spent the whole day in there. 






Food (and make reservations):  Armando Al Pantheon, Roscioli's, Tram Tram, Da Enzo

Gelato: Ciampini, Giolitti

Drinks: Litro, Cul De Sac (negronis became our summer staple cocktail). 


Walk around Trastevere- the streets are so beautiful and filled with bookstores and vintage shops. 


We stayed at a lovely Airbnb (my favourite from the trip). If you're thinking of booking your first stay, you can get a little money off your booking by clicking here




I hope you enjoyed my photos from Italy- sorry they trickled in so slowly. Hope you all have a lovely weekend!

x
Zoe

9/06/2017
Italian Summer Part Two: The Amalfi Coast

I am well aware that the Amalfi Coast needs zero introduction, by virtue of the views and birds-eye pasta spreads that have almost certainly been dominating your Instagram feed (if your 'following' list resembles mine in any manner). After a, frankly, anxiety-maxing drive to our Airbnb in Ravello (click here for some money off your first stay if you're planning your next getaway), we were rewarded over the following couple of days with the best spaghetti vongole of our lives, a caprese salad overdose and postcard worthy townscapes that my photos below, nor even Emily Ratajkowski's vacation photos cannot fully do justice (it is really that beautiful over there). 

Driving from Puglia to Ravello. 



On our first night we dined at Hotel Villa Maria after seeing some great reviews online- the food ended up being disappointing but it was still a damn pretty place to eat at. 


Villa Cimbrone. 

Dress is from Bimba Y Lola. 

Mornings at our Airbnb. My favourite part of the listing, other than the host's cat who could come by, were the rows of lemon trees (amongst other fruits) out front that our host let us pick from at our leisure. Amalfi lemons are huge, and not actually very sour but aromatic in a lovely way- for breakfast I'd have toast with honey and lemon juice on top and it was delicious. 

I'm so glad we chose Ravello as our home base on the coast (as opposed to Positano or Amalfi), as it felt more quiet and less touristic. If you enjoy classical music, Ravello is famous for their concerts as the artistic hub of the Amalfi Coast (we heard orchestras practicing as we walked home in the moonlight (see below), which was almost too perfect given the rustic romanticism of the place.  I don't have any great photos of the meal, but Mimi's Pizzeria was an amazing dinner spot in the town. 

There was also the cool Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer around the corner from our place.



Sunseekers at Amalfi. 

An important note: If you're travelling to and around the coast, I'd recommend doing it on Vespa- some of the roads are very narrow and the experience is not for the faint of heart given you will be sharing them with some large (travel bus large, I kid you not) and fast vehicles. There's also a bus that stops at the various destinations but the trip back at the end of the day is a pain, when most people return back to their accommodation at around the same time and it took a few busses before we managed to squeeze on one.

For one of our lunches, we caught at boat at Amalfi and ate at Da Teresa, which hides in a secluded cove and has its own spread of umbrellas and deck chairs for you to better digest the aforementioned best spaghetti vongole ever post-meal. Try and eat earlier so you have a better chance of snagging a chair/umbrella afterwards. 


Positano. On our last day on the coast, I booked us spots on a shared boat tour to Capri via Positano Boats- I would highly recommend this for anyone looking to island hop/ hop in the ocean but sans private yacht at your disposal (a problem I share), and the group wasn't very large so we still had a bit of privacy. 

These steps were a pain to climb up at the end of the day, but beautiful nonetheless. 



We spent only a few hours on Capri, but had another amazing meal at Pullali wine bar, which sits in the clock tower thankfully secluded from the tourist-heavy Piazza Umberto I. Though Da Teresa's spaghetti vongole was amazing, we had the undisputed best pasta of the entire trip (!) here, and it was the zucchini spaghetti...just thinking about it is making me melt. If you're going solo/ in a pair, book ahead and request the balcony table. 

Suit from Her the Label


Next chapter will be on Naples. Thanks for tuning in xx

Zoe 
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8/23/2017
Don't Forget to Stretch


Before you go to the ball and dance the night away, don't forget to stretch. 






Shot at home by my dad, in a Chanel dress (thank you Olga!). 
Lipstick: Chanel Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur in No 5 Rouge

x
Zoe